I have twice
visited Anzac Cove. The first time for three or four days in late March 2007;
which is only a month before the time of the Landing, it’s freezing there that
time of year.
The second time I
went was August 2010; Summer. It’s was hot, but not unbearable. That time I
spent about 6 days climbing and scouring the hills and gullies, taking photos,
doing sketches and generally exploring in detail everything I could.
I left there that
time thinking I’d covered everything I’d like to see, but when back at the
drawing table, and on more then one occasion, wished I could go back and
explore a certain area, or see the view from another. There’s just so much to
see. I reckon I could spend another week there.
What strikes you
quite early on is all the bone fragments still lying around. On my last day
there I found a skull and other bones which I reported to the Commonwealth War
Graves Commission (CWGC) who retrieved them and buried them.
The poor cove was
staring out across, Monash
Valley from the cliffs
near Steele’s Post and, by the way his bones are laid out, he may have already
been moved once before. To get the photo I had to reach my arm out full length,
lean out over the precipice to get a good angle; being mindful not to drop my
camera, or myself, over the edge. The CWGC couldn’t determine whether he was
Anzac or Turk so he was reburied somewhere nearby in an unmarked grave; which
is all they could do, and is fair
enough.
The view from Walker ’s Ridge north towards Suvla Bay
is “guzel” (goo-zel, Turkish for beautiful). Nice beaches, but no surf.
View north from Walker's Ridge |
If you get a
chance to go the Gallipoli, do it, and take a bit of time to have a good look
around. It’s well worth it. The little orchard at the Fisherman’s hut sells
sweet little apples, and there’s a Tuck shop and souvenir sellers at the
Chessboard and on Chunuk Bair.
I stayed at TJ’s
Hostel in Eceabat (pronounced ee-jay-a-bat). It has single and double bedrooms
with toilets, etc as well as dorm style backpacker accom. TJ and Bee will
really look after you. They provide a Turkish breakfast, after which I would go to
the grocery shop and buy tucker for lunch, and jumped on my little hire scooter
and disappeared for the day, no helmet required, just jam ya hat on tight and
enjoy the breeze blowing on your face. Just like riding down the back paddock.
I usually returned late in the afternoon or early evening. Just out the door
and around the corner from TJ’s there’s about a dozen different restaurants,
etc to buy your tea. Being just across the road from the sea (The Narrows)
there’s heaps a fresh seafood, washed down with a stubby of Efes beer -
“Guzel”.
After retiring
from the Army, one of the first things I did to help me create this book, after
buying a drawing table and a comfy chair, was to build a terrain model of the
Gaba Tepe area. It took me about a week, and is basically plaster filler and
cardboard on a sheet of masonite.
The scale is 1mm
= 10 metres. The dimensions of the board are 900x600mm (3’x2’). I have drawn
directly from it for some of my aerial views of the area, and also used it to
measure distances, and interpret/understand relative positions of the opposing
sides. There are detailed contour maps in Bean's Official History from which I acquired the relative information.
It is reasonably
accurate for its size, and gives a good idea of the slopes and heights in the
area. When building it I got quite a good appreciation of the terrain there
from a broad perspective.
Great stuff Dave. I enjoyed the description of your time doing research in Turkey. Perhaps I will go one day.
ReplyDeleteTurkey is a great place to visit. Heaps of things to see, and the people are really helpful and friendly. Prices are reasonable as well.
DeleteThe replica or model of the area must have helped when reviewing details of the approaches/ landings and actions on the land. It looks great. You have many talents!
ReplyDeleteThanks, it was fun to make as well.
ReplyDelete